Lens Correction for Portraits?
This feature was one of my most anticipated of the Lightroom 3 and Adobe CS5 before they came out. I don’t have any fisheye lenses and generally don’t have anything that looks distorted but that little perfectionist in me wanted my images to be correct. Now that I’ve used it for several months, I find I often forget to turn it on and I don’t miss not using it. Am I missing something or is the lens distortion not a big deal unless you have an extremely distorted lens? There is more correction as your focal goes down.
Here’s one image taken with a Canon 28-135mm at a 28mm focal length. Looking at them side-by-side so to speak, you can’t really see what’s been corrected.
Once I put one image in a difference blend mode, you can start to see that the distortion wasn’t anywhere near my subject. Black is areas with no correction. The colored section is where there’s been a correction to the distortion and it’s in an area I would probably crop out anyway. So I don’t see a need for it in this case. Do you enable lens correction for your portraits?
HDR Photomatix and CS5 side-by-side
This isn’t a huge in-depth comparison of the two products. This past weekend I went to a car show and I did quite a number of handheld bracketed images so I could make some HDR photos. Lately I’ve been using CS5 over Photomatix because I liked the results a bit better. I wanted to see if that was justified so I processed the same set of images in both and did a split compare.
I tried to get the exact same look from each, but quickly realized that was a lost cause, so I did my best to balance the image in the same fashion with just a single HDR pass. And here are my thoughts:
All in all I prefer CS5 final processed image. Even though the colors aren’t as rich as Photomatix, the noise reduction, ghost removal and reduced fringe coloring make it my choice for the moment. I’m sure Photomatix will be coming out with a new version to address these issues and one up Adobe. There is one case in which I’m using Photomatix over CS5 and that’s the batch processing. When I’m doing real estate photos, I’ll have a set of a hundred bracketed images and need to combine those into HDR easily.
Is there a particular reason you use one product over the other? I’d love to hear your thoughts as well.
The Photography Tip of the Week #072
3) The third reason for cropping is to correct the angle of the image. So you think correcting the angle of the image isn’t cropping? You may be right, but cropping does occur when you fix the angle of the photo so everything isn’t sliding off the end. This may be unnecessary information in your image, but it’s still cropped.
Split Printing
Print big on a budget.
My photography tip this week was to print big. Printing big allows you to really show off the detail of your work and nothing says wow like a large photo. But what if you don’t have a large format printer and don’t have the funds for doing big prints? This is a great way to printing large sample images with out the large print cost. Split the image up and piece it back together. I’m not suggesting that you try to line up the edges of sections of the photo, but if you take the image above and add a design element like below you can easily line up some white areas of your image. There’s nothing to match up other than corners.
In this example, the upper right corner could be the largest print one could make on their letter sized printer. You don’t have to have the breaks being as wide as shown here. But make the spacing wide enough so it looks like you meant it. As an added tip, you can take a section and add a different photo to make it be more than a inexpensive way of doing a large print. It becomes a signature print. The possibilities aren’t endless, but pretty close.
Read MoreEssence of Time
I have a “photo recipe” coming up next week. Going to do a 2 or 3 part segment on time lapse photography. Here’s my test time lapse I made to make sure I had all of the pieces down and in place. This time lapse does do one of the big no-no’s tho. I shot it in aperture priority. But since that was the only automatic setting in the entire setup, it works especially for a sunset. If you are in a “stable” lighting condition, you should lock every setting down.
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The Photography Tip of the Week #067
Some place to go
067 Photography Tip of the Week (audio)
Occasionally you will take a photo that you really want to recompose. These are often when you have your subject in the dead center of the frame. There’s nothing wrong with having the subject in the center of the frame, but depending on the image it may lack interest. Simply recomposing the photo will make it much better. But if you didn’t do it in the field, you’ll have to do it in post. This is the one benefit of high megapixel cameras, the ability to crop an image without losing the shot. Below is a photo I took where I liked the overall look, but it seemed to be missing that little bit extra to make it a truly nice photo.
With this image there are so many possibilities for cropping, but in most cases you will want to use the rule of thirds for recomposition. The rule of thirds simply put says to place your subject on a horizontal or vertical line one third in from the edge. But for this image there are still many possibilities. I have two of which shown in blue and red. We could even change the aspect ratio to landscape, but for this we’ll leave it portrait.
So what is one to do? Which crop is the best. Well you need to look at what story are you trying to tell with your subject. For this type of portrait, is it “some place to go” or “where have we been?” For a nice stroll on the beach I think some place to go is more important. It speaks to the future instead of the past. So I want to have more photo in front of them instead of behind. And I’ll choose a crop close to the red option. Many times your image will have a very obvious crop once you decide. If not keep your thirds line either through the eyes or through the body. With two people in the photo like this, I’ll keep a line through the eyes since the eyes are on the same level and the vertical line between the people with the edge going down their side. This mimics the crop of the image as if I was cropping in tight.
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